WEEK 11

Use capture one as a software application

How to use adobe bridge – narrowing photos down by rating it 1 – 5 and choosing the different rates

choose setting auto. control colour balance using white balance and clicke on white. 

canon 760

LTAL_Lau_PRINT.jpg 

highest quality 

Photoshop – use heal tool to get rid of sensor spots. clone tools 

WEEK 10

PORTRAITS

  • CLASS NOTES
  • Photos look better when you shoot in more than 50mm lens. the more it goes up the more it compresses. Compresses our facial features and makes it look better. 
  • 100mm lens allows to shoot for details, e.g. jewellery, insects 
  • crop – 1 1/2 to 2 x to the lens
  • find out what is the lowest aperture without camera shake. Use the reciprocal rule to determine what your minimum allowable shutter speed e.g. on a 105,, lens, shoot at 1/125 or faster
  • guy shoots in 1/3 overexposed in almost everything cause he likes the way it looks
  • as we are zooming there is less in focus even with aperture being constant
  • shutter speed was too slow – there’s camera shake

WIP

Phrase 

Man’s Best Friend 

For the second assignment I chose the phrase “A man’s best friend”. It’s very cliched but I couldn’t connect with the phrases provided from the assignment brief. I might change it throughout the assignment. 

This story narrative inspired by my dog Benji. He’s 12 year this year and was adopted from RSPCA. Instead of capturing his day to day life I want to capture something that doesn’t happen too often. Maybe this would be more interesting? For this series, I will be taking photos of Benji having a haircut, done by me.  I’m a very frugal person and will do anything to save a bit money. His usual haircut is around $80. The story will start with me walking him (to wear him out so he will sit still during the haircut process… hopefully), to me actually cutting his hair and taking a bath.

Story board

  1. Wide shot of Benji – this is to set the scene and introduce the main subject
  2. Medium shot of hands holding leash
  3. Wide shot of Benji
  4. Long wide of Benji running in the fields
  5. Close up of Benji
  6. Walking home shot – wide shot of his back
  7. Entering house shot
  8. Over the shoulder shot of Benji and me in bathroom.
  9. Medium shot of cutting hair
  10. Close up of hair cut shot
  11. Overhead shot of benji
  12. Shower shot with bubbles.
  13. Wide shot of Benji.

Inspirations 

Since none of the phrase inspired me I decided to base my theme on my dog since I like to capture pretty and cute things and he’s cute and adorable.

Here’s some of the pet photographers I like and will be using their photos for inspirations. 

Holy Montgomery

https://www.instagram.com/brindleberryacres/

Scruffy dog

https://www.instagram.com/scruffydogphotography/

Alicja Zmyslowska

https://www.instagram.com/alicjazmyslowska/

WEEK 9

Assessment

Your Work in Progress can take any, or all, of the following forms:

  • Initial test photos taken
  • Sketches
  • Sourced images you will use as inspiration for your own work
  • Detailed discussion of plans for your shoot

NARRATIVE

Narrative photography us telling a story with pictures also called storytelling photography, or visual storytelling, and often takes the form of a photo essay.

It can be either linear or non-linear. 

Linear – Key events are in chronological order. Includes Introduction, body and conclusion. 

Non-linear – also called systematic. Not in any particular order. More like photos shot within a chosen theme. 

The types of photos that should be in a narrative series:

  • establishing shots
  • wide shots
  • detail shots
  • process/action shots
  • closing images 

Non-linear example

Oculi- Alana Holmberg

https://www.oculi.com.au/ALANA-HOLMBERG/And-Holland-Has-Tulips/1

Linear example 

Oculi/ Mathew About

https://www.oculi.com.au/MATTHEW-ABBOTT/The-Last-Outback-Truckies/2/thumbs

WEEK 8

best time to shoot is an hour after sunrise

poly boards – reflectors

screens diffuser

NARRATIVE

What is narrative photography?

Narrative photography is telling a story with pictures. It is also referred to as storytelling photography, or visual storytelling, and often takes the form of a photo essay.

What is a photo essay?

A photo essay is a series of photographs that are intended to tell a story or evoke a series of emotions. Your photo essays should be able to stand alone, without a written article, and make logical sense to the viewer.

What is the difference between a linear and a non-linear narrative?

A narrative can be linear or non-linear. Linear narratives present stories in a logical manner by telling what happens from one point in time to the next. They follow a straight line—starting at the beginning, moving to the middle and proceeding to the end of the story. Non-linear narratives piece together a story where scenes may be presented outside this single logical sequence.

What is the story you want to tell?

When developing a visual story the most important thing to ask is “What is the story I want to tell?” 

To help answer that question, consider the following:

  • What is the issue?
  • What will be the key events or moments?
  • Who are the characters?
  • What is the context?

How do I tell a story with images?

You can tell a story with one image, or with a series of images.

The types of image you can include in a narrative series are:

  • Establishing shots
  • Wide shots
  • Detail shots
  • Process/action shots
  • Portraits
  • Closing images

TIP: For every image, the photographer should ask themselves “How does this image propel the narrative?”

LIGHT 

There are two types of lights – natural and artificial light 

Natural Light

Natural light is light from the sun. 

Artificial Light

There are two types of artificial light – flash/strobe and continuous.

Cloudy

Fluorescent

Led

Tungsten

It was dark and I had my ISO low so the photos came out blurry.

WEEK 7

What is white balance?

White balance is a setting on your DSLR that determines how accurately the colours in your photos are reproduced.

COLOUR TEMPERATURE

What is colour temperature?

Different light sources – artificial lights as well as natural light at different times of the day and under different conditions – have different colours. These colours vary from warm (red/yellow) to cool (blue). We refer to these different colours by their colour temperature.

What are some of the different types of light?

Different types of light will produce different coloured light. Common lighting types include tungsten, fluorescent, neon, halogen, sunlight, cloudy and shade. A candle emits a reddish light, while shade has a blue tint.

How is colour temperature measured?The colour temperature of different light sources is measured in degrees Kelvin. Cool colours, like blue and white, generally have high colour temperatures, over 7000K. Warmer colours, like red and orange, lie around the 2000K mark.

How do we make sure we get the correct colour in our images?

The human eye is so highly developed that we don’t notice this change (much), however, camera technology (both colour film and digital sensors) are not as advanced. The key to capturing accurate colour is by using your camera’s White Balance settings (and shooting RAW!).

What white balance settings should I use?

There are three options for you to use: 

  1. Auto white balance (AWB)
  2. White balance presets
  3. Manual/custom

Much of the time automatic white balance will suffice, but in certain lighting situations, such as shade or mixed lighting, it is preferable to use a white balance preset.

Activities

Light is the most important factor when capturing an image.

Learning how to see and capture light in all its forms is essential to developing your photographic skills.

For this lesson’s exercise, you will experiment with light by shooting a series of images, both indoor and outdoor, using a combination of artificial light, natural light and lighting modifers.

ARTIFICIAL LIGHT

Artificial light – flash only

Flash with Reflector
Flash with reflector and diffuser/soft box

Flash only – harsh shadows on one side of the face
Flash with reflector – shadows are not as harsh, lights are more diffused
Flash with reflector and diffuser – soft shadows, diffused lights

NATURAL LIGHT
Shot in Shutter priority (S/Tv)

Direct light
Direct light + diffuser
Direct light + diffuser
Direct light + Diffuser
Side Light
Side light + reflector
Side light + reflector
Side light + diffuser
Side light + diffuser
Back light
Back Light overexposed +1
Back light
back light – sun directly behind subject

D

WEEK 6

Aperture 

The lens is the eye of the camera; the aperture is the pupil.

The aperture can be dialed down to a small hole or dialed up to a large hole. 

The aperture seting affects the brightness of your photo with respect to the scenes available light.

 A large aperture (hole) lets more light in therefore the image will be brighter.

 A small aperture (hole) lets less light in therefore the image will be darker.

The secondary effect of adjusting the aperture is shallow or deeper depth of field (the range of distance of objects in focus)

A larger aperture (hole) = brighter image = shallower depth of field (DOF) 

A smaller aperture (hole) = darker image = deeper depth of field (DOF)

Shutter 

The shutter is the eyelid of the camera; a mechanised cover which blocks light from the recording chip until it is opened briefly to record the shot. 

The speed with which the shutter is opened can be controlled in fractions of a second (eg. 1/200th of a sec, 1/ 1500th of a sec) 

The shutter speed setting effects the brightness of your photo with respect to the scenes available light. 

A fast shutter speed will reduce the light recording time and produce a darker image. 

A slow shutter speed will lengthen the light recording time and produce a brighter image 

A secondary effect of adjusting the shutter speed is increased or decreased motion blur on moving subjects 

A slow shutter speed = brighter image = increased motion blur on moving subjects. 

A fast shutter speed = darker image = decreased motion blur on moving subjects (crisp freeze frame).

ISO

The ISO effects the retina of the camera (recording surface or chip) 

The ISO is a value of sensitivity of the sensor to light. 

The ISO setting effects the brightness of your image with respect to the scenes available light. 

A high ISO number will increase the sensors sensitivuty and produce a brighter image. 

A low ISO number will decrease the sensors sensitivity and produce a darker image. 

A secondary effect of adjusting the ISO is increased or decreased digital noise 

A high ISO = brighter image = increased digital noise 

A low ISO = darker image = minimal if any digital noise

WEEK 5

CLASS NOTES

ISO

What is ISO?

ISO refers to the level of sensitivity of your camera to light. In traditional/film photography, ISO was the indication of how sensitive a film was to light. In digital photography, ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor.

How is ISO measured?

ISO is measured using the following numbers (and more):

  • 100
  • 200
  • 400
  • 800
  • 1600
  • 3200

The lower the ISO (e.g. 100), the less sensitive your camera’s sensor is to light, while a higher ISO (e.g. 3200) increases its sensitivity. Each number represents a ‘stop’.  Like shutter speed, these increments either half or double the sensitivity. So, every time you double the ISO setting, you halve the required exposure time, and vice versa.

How does ISO affect my images?

A higher ISO setting makes your sensor more sensitive to light, meaning that you can take photos in darker conditions without the need to use a flash or a tripod. However, increasing your camera’s ISO comes at a cost — it also increases the amount of digital noise present in your photo, reducing the image quality. Noise is the digital equivalent of film grain, and it shows up as lots of tiny coloured dots, which are particularly noticeable in the darker areas of your photo.

Which ISO should I choose?

Generally, you should always aim to use the lowest ISO setting possible, because this will give you the best image quality. The lowest ISO on DSLR cameras is 100 (or 200 on some Nikons), a setting with good contrast and fine detail.

Characteristics of low ISO:

  • Low number (e.g. 100)
  • Fine grain
  • Higher contrast
  • Maximum image quality

Characteristics of high ISO:

  • High number (e.g. 3200)
  • Large grain/noisy
  • Lower contrast
  • Reduced image quality

When should I choose a high ISO?

  1. When there is not enough light for you to capture a sharp image. 
  2. When you want to intentionally introduce noise/grain in to your image for creative effect.

Possible scenarios might include sporting events held indoors or at night, concerts, galleries and long exposure photos of the night sky.

Does ISO affect my aperture and shutter speed settings?

Yes! Capturing a correct exposure is a balancing act between shutter speed, aperture and ISO. As one increases to allow more light in, one (or both) of the other two settings must decrease to maintain the same exposure level, and vice versa. 

A brief summary of the three fundamentals of exposure

  • Aperture controls depth of field 
  • Shutter speed freezes or blurs movement 
  • ISO refers to the light sensitivity of the camera’s sensor

ACTIVITIES
Full Sun

Shade

Low Light

Artificial Light

WEEK 4

CLASS NOTES

APERTURE

What is aperture?

Shutter speed is a fairly simple concept to understand because we all understand the notion of time (and fractions of it). 

Aperture, on the other hand, is a little different. Aperture (meaning ‘opening’) is an iris in the lens — a small set of interlocking blades that control how much light enters the camera. A bigger hole (or ‘larger aperture’) will allow more light, meaning a brighter image; a smaller hole (or ‘narrow aperture’) allows less light, meaning a darker image.

How is aperture measured?

Aperture is measured in ‘f-stops’.    An f-stop (e.g. f/8) specifies the size of the hole, and is a number that refers to the ratio of the size of the aperture to the focal length of the lens. A high f-stop number (e.g f/22) means that the aperture hole is small; a low f-stop number (e.g f/4) means that the aperture is large, or wide open.

TIP: Moving from one f-stop to the next either doubles or halves the amount of light allowed in to the camera.

What does the aperture do?

Much like shutter speed, aperture plays both a technical and creative role. First, the aperture (like shutter speed) controls the amount of light let in to the camera’s sensor, thereby affecting the exposure. Second, the aperture affects how much of the image is in focus, something referred to as    depth of field.

What is depth of field?

Depth of field (DOF) is the area of your image that is in focus.

A large depth of field — signified by a larger f-stop number (e.g. f/16) — means that more of your image will be in focus whether it’s close to your camera or far away.

A small, or shallow, depth of field — signified by a smaller f-stop number (e.g. f/4) — means that only part of the image will be in focus and the rest will be blurred.

SHUTTER SPEED

What is shutter speed?

Shutter speed refers to the length of time a camera’s shutter is open for, and subsequently how long the digital sensor (or film) is exposed to light in order to capture the scene.

How is shutter speed measured?

Shutter speed is measured in seconds or, in most cases, fractions of seconds (e.g. 1″, 1/2, 1/15, 1/125, 1/1000).  The larger the denominator, the faster the speed (i.e. 1/500 is faster than 1/30 which, in turn, is faster than 1/4).

How does shutter speed affect my images?

The shutter speed plays both a technical and creative role. First, changing the shutter speed alters the amount of light let in to the camera, thereby affecting the overall exposure. Second, adjusting the shutter speed allows the photographer to either freeze or blur motion.

Here are some guidelines for selecting shutter speed:

  • To freeze motion, choose a faster shutter speed.
  • To blur motion, choose a slower shutter speed. 
  • EXPOSURE
  • The exposure triangle
  • A photograph’s exposure, as captured by your camera, determines how light or dark an image will appear. 
  • The three fundamental elements of exposure are:
    • Shutter speed
    • Aperture
    • ISO

Together, these make up what is known as the exposure triangle and form the foundation of successful photography.




Capturing a correct exposure is a balancing act between shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
You can use both shutter speed and aperture to alter the amount of light that strikes the sensor, however, as one increases, the other has to decrease to maintain the same exposure level, and vice versa.
For example, as your aperture opens, and lets in more light, your shutter speed will have to increase (i.e. a faster shutter speed) in order to compensate — if you want to maintain the same exposure level.
 If your aperture narrows, and lets in less light, your shutter speed will need to decrease (i.e. slower shutter speed) to balance that out.


NOTES

  • Aperture affects depth of field, shutter speed affects motion blur and ISO affects image noise
  • Although the aperture is the main factor affecting depth of field, there are a number of other considerations, including:
    • Focal length
    • Sensor size
    • The distance between you (i.e. the photographer) and your subject. Get nice and close to your subject to achieve shallow focus.
    • The distance between your subject and the background – The further away the background is from your subject, the more blurred the background is going to be.

Wide-angle

Aperture 22 – Result was a very blurry photo. Maybe if I used a tripod, it would eliminate the camera shake.

WEEK 3

RAW FILE

PROS

  • Produces the highest quality file as the RAW file format captures the data in its most original form. The unprocessed and uncompressed files allow the photographer to make adjustments to it. 
  • RAW images allow for adjustable white balance in post-production because they retain their Kelvin temperature. Converting an image from tungsten/ incandescent to daylight is achieved by adjusting the Kelvin temperature. Indestructible RAW files are known to be indestructible in that the original can never be saved over. Once the image is exported to an image le format like a JPEG or tiff, the changes become permanent.  
  • Higher in dynamic range (ability to display highlights and shadows)

CONS

  • Large file size and storage. The size of a RAW file equates to the number of megapixels the camera has. When shooting large volumes, such as weddings, a lot of memory card storage is required plus hard drive storage needed to house and backup client work – this is recommended to secure the files from being lost or damaged. 
  •  RAW conversion. Reading RAW files is completely reliant on specialist software and cannot be viewed by standard image previewing applications that come standard with a computer. 
  • Not suitable for printing directly from the camera or without post processing.

JPEG FILE

Things to consider when shooting in JPEG File.

  •  A standard format readable by any image program on the market or available open source.
  • Exactly 8-bits per colour.
  • Compressed 
  • Small in file size (an 8 megapixel camera will produce JPEG between 1 and 3 MB’s in size).
  • Lower in dynamic range.
  • Higher in contrast.
  • Sharper.
  • Immediately suitable for printing, sharing, or posting on the Web.
  • Processed by your camera, setting such as white balance, colour saturation, tone curve, sharpening and colour space are already applied to the image so you do not need to spend time on it. 

NOTES

  • Always best to shoot in RAW files. 

COMPOSITION

Depth 

Photography is a two-dimensional medium, so it’s important to choose our composition carefully to convey the sense of depth that was present in the actual scene. To create depth in a photo, add objects in the foreground, middle ground and background using techniques such as:

  • Overlapping e.g. nearby objects overlap things farther away
  •  Relative size e.g. lamp posts of same size get smaller with distance
  •  Linear perspective e.g. converging parallels of walls, roads
  •  Relative position e.g. further objects tend to be higher in the horizon

  • Progressive loss of detail e.g. textures smooth out as objects recede
  • Relative position of shadows
  •  Contrast e.g. contrast decreases with distance

Depth of Field 

Landscapes warrant vast depth of field (DOF) to provide a sense of distance to the viewer.

When shooting with a wide-angle lens, a small aperture and from a long distance away from the subject, the photographer is taking advantage of the various ways to maximize his or her depth of field. Capturing an image like this with the knowledge that two-thirds of the total depth of field will exist beyond the point of focus ultimately means that the photographer has wasted more than half of the DOF. This is where calculating the scene’s hyperfocal distance comes into play. As a general rule of thumb, focusing at detail around the one- third mark from the bottom of the image is a good starting point. Understanding the lens in use is further crucial to a sharp image.  An aperture around f11 provides the sharpest image. 

SHUTTER SPEED

Shutter speed is the length of time your camera shutter is open, exposing light onto the camera sensor – it’s how long your camera spends taking a photo. Shutter speeds are typically measured in fractions of a second, when they are under a second. For example 1/4 means a quarter of a second, while 1/250 means one two-hundred-and-fiftieth of a second (or four milliseconds).

Motion

When you use a long shutter speed, you end up exposing your sensor for a significant period of time. The first big effect of shutter speed is motion blur. If your shutter speed is long, moving subjects in your photo will appear blurred along the direction of motion. This effect is used often in advertisements of cars and motorbikes, where a sense of speed and motion is communicated to the viewer by intentionally blurring the moving wheels.

Slow shutter speeds are also used to photograph objects at night, or in dim environments with a tripod. Landscape photographers may intentionally use long shutter speeds to create a sense of motion on rivers and waterfalls, while keeping everything else completely sharp.

Shutter speed can also freeze motion. If you use a fast shutter, speed, you can get rid of motion from fast moving objects, like birds flying or cars driving past. 

Zooming

An image with the ‘zoom effect’ involves altering the focal length during the exposure and creatively depicts the subject travelling toward or away from the viewer.

  • Requires a slow shutter speed of at least one or two seconds (1” or 2”) to allow adequate time for the photographer to rotate the lens whilst the shutter is open.
  • In low light situations 

 Method:

  • Sets to a slow shutter speed and once the sound of the shutter opening is heard, rotates the zoom. When using a longer exposure of 30 seconds (30”), this rotation can be gradual or incremental, in turn creating some exciting repetition.
  • Use tripod

Panning

Panning is a technique used in photography to capture a moving subject through a horizontal movement.

  • The camera tracks and freezes the moving object and blurs the stationary elements. If photographing a moving car, to achieve a successful pan, the objective is for the car to maintain the same position within the frame for the entire length of the shot. Peer through the view finder is more accuracy. 
  • Panning requires long shutter speeds, which means that there needs to be low light or the photographer needs to use a neutral density later to block out some light. When attempting the panning technique with too much available light, the image will become overexposed. The shutter speed will vary based on how fast the subject is moving. 

Note: The trick to a successful pan is to keep the lower part of the photographer’s body still and rely on rotating the body from the waist up.

Light Trails

  • * Shutter speed – depending on the light in your scene, your shutter time will need to be at least a 10 to 15 seconds, or longer if necessary. If you are doing a seascape and the water is moving quickly, then a few seconds may be long enough to make the water look misty.
  • * Aperture – you will want to have your aperture set at anywhere between f/8 and f/16. This again, will be determined by how much light is in the scene and how long you want to expose for
  • * ISO – keep your ISO settings as low as possible, ISO 100 is what I use for long exposures.

CLASS NOTES

  • Shutter speed refers to the length of time a camera’s shutter is open for, and subsequently how long the digital sensor (or film) is exposed to light in order to capture the scene.
  • Measured in seconds or, in most cases, fractions of seconds (e.g. 1, 1/2, 1/15, 1/125, 1/1000), shutter speed allows the photographer to either freeze or blur motion.
  • What is shutter speed? Shutter speed refers to the length of time a camera’s shutter is open for, and subsequently how long the digital sensor is exposed to light in order to capture the scene.
  • How is shutter speed measured? Shutter speed is measured in seconds or, in most cases, fractions of seconds (e.g. 1, 1/2, 1/15, 1/125, 1/1000). The larger the denominator, the faster the speed (i.e. 1/500 is faster than 1/30 which, in turn, is faster than 1/4).
  • How does shutter speed affect my images? The shutter speed plays both a technical and creative role. First, changing the shutter speed alters the amount of light let in to the camera, thereby affecting the overall exposure. Second, adjusting the shutter speed allows the photographer to either freeze or blur motion.
  • Which shutter speed should I use? Choosing which shutter speed to use depends upon a number of factors. 
  • Following are some questions to ask yourself before you capture a scene/subject:
  • How much light is available?
  • How fast is the subject, or the elements in your scene, moving?

How do you want to capture the scene and/or subject? Do you want to freeze motion or blur it?

Here are some guidelines for selecting shutter speed:

  • To freeze motion, choose a faster shutter speed.

  • To blur motion, choose a slower shutter speed. 


What is camera shake and how do I avoid it?

  • Camera shake occurs when your camera moves while the shutter is open. It results in blurred images, but is not to be confused with unwanted motion blur (when the subject moves) or out of focus images.

  • To avoid camera shake, choose a shutter speed with a denominator that is larger than the focal length of the lens (photographer’s call this the reciprocal rule).


Handheld vs. tripod.

  • If you’re using a slow shutter speed (anything slower than 1/60) you will need to either use a tripod or some some type of image stabilization. 
  • More current cameras and lenses come with built in image stabilization, so be sure to check.
  • EXPOSURE
  • The exposure triangle
  • A photograph’s exposure, as captured by your camera, determines how light or dark an image will appear. 
  • The three fundamental elements of exposure are:
    • Shutter speed
    • Aperture
    • ISO
  • Together, these make up what is known as the exposure triangle. 
  • These three elements form the foundation of successful photography and we will be looking at each over the next three classes.

NOTES

  • Shutter speed is measured in seconds. The larger the denominator, the faster the shutter speed. e.g. 1/1000
  • Use lower shutter speed to capture motion
  • Can change shutter speed to correct exposure
  • Adjusting the shutter speed allows the photographer to either freeze or blur motion
  • To freeze motion, choose a faster shutter speed
  • To blur motion, choose a slower shutter speed
  • 1/80 – slow, more blur, 1/1000 – fast, freeze
  • Don’t go lower than your focal length 
  • Leave ISO on 100
  • Capturing a correct exposure is a balancing act between shutter speed, aperture and ISO. As one increases, one or both of the other two settings has to decrease to maintain the same exposure level and vice versa. 
  • Shoot in shutter priority – have to chance aperture to correct exposure 

Freezing and Blurring

Higher shutter speed number – freezes motion.
Lower shutter speed number – blurs motion.
Result for 1/2 was very blurry and looks overexposed? Not sure if it’s meant to look like that? Maybe using a tripod would produce a better photo?

Panning

This technique was quite enjoyable.
Result for 1” was very blurry as opposed to 1/30 which the car/subject was clear.

Zoom Blur

Zoomed in. I like the 1/4 effect.